Ideas from the Couture

I’m beholden to the House of Dior and Vogue Runway for the images included in this post. Thank you.

Warning: short but inspiring post. Another warning: you’ll have to watch very short videos from the Dior atelier — too short and worth the time.

I may or may not use these details from the Spring 2022 Couture season, but I am inspired. Yes, I want to copy, knock off and be shamelessly obsessed by the details, and couture techniques.

Let’s do Dior:

1. Queue de rat or, rattail (rat tail?) cord.

Screen capture from the Dior video.

English speaking sewists know this as a bias tube strip with a smallish diameter. To my knowledge, our rattail cords have an inner layer which keeps it rounded. Here’s a Dior video which I have watched several times. It’s all hand sewn to the base fashion fabric (hand sewing is a hallmark of hate couture) but I cannot deduce whether it was couched down, or sewn down with slip stitches. You tell me after the video. Watch, please.

2. Narrow lace and tulle ribbons. Without being sickly sweet, this is a masterful use of a very common embellishment. Narrow lace and tulle strips!

Top: design lines are marked. Middle: closeup of gathered tulle strips and not-yet-gathered lace. Bottom: masterful application.
Final result

Hand gathered and applied to a previously marked base fabric it creates delicious texture and high impact. Note how slowly the gathered lace is machine sewn to the fabric with the use of an awl to keep the presser foot from dragging on the lace. Must watch video.

3. Straight Jacket Silhouette is an obvious homage by the House of Dior to Claire McCardell, (in my opinion) and so very chic and edgy.

Top photos: Dior 2022 couture wrap with moto jacket vibes. Below left: wrap in a sensible knit sorry, forgot the designer. Below right: original by Claire McCardell, 1940s

Please don’t lift your arms while wearing it. Unless, it’s made with a knit, which I did in 2015. You can see it in a previous post — Mccardell Inspired Wrap.

Hope you enjoyed this. The Couture is such an inspiration.

Samina

2 thoughts on “Ideas from the Couture

  1. Hi Samina! Thanks for the videos and photos – I love that you’re always so inspired by fashion. I don’t get it, so tend not to look at the details, and miss out on what are probably the best parts. I haven’t watched the videos yet, but would say that you can replicate the look for the first two photos with flat tucks, even filled flat tucks. If you have a firmer fabric like ponte, I wouldn’t try to fill them, but something lighter weight like a cotton could be filled. I might try a narrow bias binding in the same color, then press them well. Can’t wait to see what you come up with!

    Liked by 1 person

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