This post was originally titled “Making the Impossible, Possible”.
Say you’re sewing up a see-through, diaphanous, loosely woven and therefore ravel-prone item. You’ve decided to use French seams throughout. Good! But hold on; there are side slits in this here garment. A French seam and a side slit do not mix – not really. Impossible situation, given the enclosed nature of the French seam! That, of course, means that the geek in me has to attempt it.
To avoid the conundrum, I might have gone two ways:
- Stayed away from the French seam. I could have used a plain seam and pressed it open so it can easily diverge into a slit at the bottom of my tunic.
- Eliminated the slit and sewn up the French seams all the way to the hem. Nope. I like my side slits.
Are you beginning to see the picture? I thought extensively about how I could use a French seam on the sides AND get it to separate in a slit, neatly and easily. Well, I accomplished the impossible, sort of.
The structure of the French seam is well documented in this previous post. I know you are familiar with French seams, readers; just in case there are new seamstresses reading this, please refer back to said post to see the way they are made.
Moving on to the end-of-seam and beginning of slit—which is literally the “point of contention”.
Does the graphic above explain it? After the second line of stitching, ending at the slit, there will be two raw edges already cut – from the time you trimmed the first seam. Press and turn around, wrong sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam, enclosing the previous seam.
I created 3/8 to ½ inch hem back onto the garment slit edges by turning and pressing twice. The “point” still looks messy on the wrong side. Maybe I should have clipped the seam further. But that would have made that area weaker. Not that this garment is going to be worn every day, but still.
I turned and hand hemmed the pointy part as best as I could. There is just a teeny bit of raw edge remaining, which cannot be helped. Should I add a “patch” on the raw, ravelly point on the inside?
The outside looks pretty good, in my humble opinion.
If you’ve accomplished this impossible feat successfully, please share! Give me your ideas.