I’m all about sewing everyday wear – as are many of our fellow sewing enthusiasts. I want to love what I sew, I want to feel the urge to pull out my most recent make almost everyday. And, I just want you to know that what I’m wearing as I write this post, has been worn for the tenth time since I put in the final stitches ten days ago. 10 out of 10….
McCalls Pattern 6996, View D, promises to be a staple this winter and the next. It is a mild weather item, though. I used a striped, lightweight sweater-like knit (purchased from The Fashion Sewing Group, owned by Nancy Erickson), and managed to match up the stripes. The description says it is a close fit, and I ask that you believe it. It has a close enough fit that I have to wear a relatively thin top underneath. Right now I’m wearing it over a close fitting matt jersey top. No belt, please…..
There are no closures, and the front ends meet at the center front without overlapping. If you like it closed, you can make the matching belt, or wear a leather belt to keep it together. I left it open since I don’t do belts. I will make this again, but will rework the sleeve cap — and see what happens. Here’s why….
The pattern is designed for a set-in sleeve, which you attach like you would a jacket sleeve. Thus, the sleeve cap is drafted higher, which means that setting it in will involve a lot of easing and some steaming at the top of the sleeve-cap/armhole area. The end result is a more jacket-like shoulder and it’s close to the arm (which I like). That is about the most fiddly part of the pattern. Next time I make this, and there will be a next time, the sleeve is going to be sewn in flat. That is, before the side seams and sleeve seams are sewn in.
I am thrilled that the stripes met where they should meet. The “stripes experts” direct you to trace out the back pattern piece as a whole piece, rather than a fold to make sure the stripes run straight and match. Er, I cut the back on a fold, but placed a line of pins through the major stripe so they lay right where they should. Success. In the image below, I’m gauging the matching possibilities of the sleeve cap and sweater body at the armhole. Success again. Whew.
The front bands that join at center back, could be done in a contrast, so I auditioned the wrong side of the fabric, but decided against it – the gray against my face seemed to add a “deathly pallor” to my face. So, it is stripes all the way!!
The other issue which added a little more time input to this piece was the fabric itself. This is where I should’ve known better. There I was, ready to serge the hem edge, turn them up and zig zag in place, but serging this knit on the crosswise grain left pokies all over the place. I did the next quick thing I could think of (erroneously, I might add. I should have gone back to see what the sweater knit experts say, one of them being OlgaLyn Jolly) — attached a rayon tape (yikes, rayon is not stretchy, Samina) on the right side and a fusible strip on the wrong. Turned up, pressed and ran a zig zag. Except, I lost stretch at the hem and the sleeve hem. Eh, no worries. I still like this cardi – or jacket, if you prefer.
The scrap fabric in the right photo could have been used for the belt, but will be used for an infinity (or Mobius) scarf instead. I have added M6996 to my closet and have put a minuscule dent in the stash. So minuscule that I’m thinking of revving up the sewing speed a little bit in 2016. C’mon, Samina.
So, friends, have a Merry Christmas! I wish you peace and happiness; I wish you safety and security. I’m always amazed that the last two words are so much a part of my holiday greeting these days.
Lots of love, and thank you for reading :). May the Force be With You.