Dear Readers,

I really killed it this time. I mean, months without a single post here! I’ve been sewing, albeit in spurts, since October. Well, here I am, and promise to make a sincere effort to write and post consistently. Because I love doing it and I love that you love reading it.

On to the sewing matter at hand; it’s an old concept, but since women began to don their men’s shirts, tailors and designers got busy shaping the quintessential button-down to a woman’s body. I am fascinated by the shaping tools involved, and by the varied designs. There are the obvious traits such as darts , princess seams, feminine design options and such things that are not found in men’s shirts. After all that manipulation, it still has the look of a shirt. Aren’t we lucky?

The Liverpool by Amy Butler, circa 2009:

It popped up in my pattern stash, which I paired with two Liberty prints purchased (from the Liberty shop in London) back in 1997. It was time for the sun to shine on this pattern and these fabrics. Heh.

The Liverpool button down by Amy Butler looks great on the cover model — would it look great on me? Line drawings tell me that it may or may not. There is plenty of dart action to fit a female shape which is a plus. Two darts on each side of center front, a center back seam, with one dart on each side of it — plus, there is a deep bust dart. So many opportunities to tweak for a good fit. Yay. Let’s go for it.

There are three length options (dress, tunic and blouse); there is a sash inserted in the side seam which ties at the back waist. So pretty; but I decided to skip the tie. I mean, it’s pretty (and is a fitting feature for pulling the shirt closer to the waist) but not age appropriate for me.

Pattern anomalies?

1: While cutting out the pattern tissue, I noticed that the shoulders are wider than the usual size 16 and it’s not even a drop shoulder style (judging by the model photo). What’s up? I did not narrow down the shoulder seam, just to see the end result. You can see the result below on the shirt. Yes, a little too big in the shoulder, but wearable.

2: The other pattern “feature” I discovered was in the slightly slanted center front as it goes up to meet the neckline. About 6 inches away from the top button area, the front edge begins to move slightly to the outside —- ending up with a V neckline shape. However, the separate button band does not slant to match — it’s perfectly straight all the way up. A drafting anomaly? What? I made it as it was, eased the separate button band to follow the slant. It’s okay to wear, but awkward to button all the way up. The collar is designed to fit perfectly. Yippee.

3. There is topstitching down all darts from the right side. You can’t tell in the photograph because I used matching thread. Note for next time: use topstitching thread in a contrasting color. I think this would look great in a very lightweight denim with “jeans” thread topstitching.

The sleeves have a turn back cuff and three length options. I chose the elbow length.

The prints are making me happy, ergo I love this shirt. As in the photo, the fabric has retained it’s fresh look, even though its already been laundered several times, which can only mean that I am wearing it a lot, which can only mean that it’s a successful project in a really good fabric. What do you think?

Next pattern in the button-down battle

The next buttondown (or buttonup) pattern is a Butterick circa 2014, designed by Katherine Tilton, and has an interesting bit of dart manipulation which I am ready to try out. Will let you know soon.

Love,

Samina