Dear friends, some sewing has resumed after the thumb fiasco, and it’s admittedly quite unselfish of me to even try and finish the project. In this post you’ll see images of this (almost done) shirt made for my brother, and some Sewing Notes to go along with it. No deep thoughts today.
- Pattern: Dress shirt,Vogue 9220, View A
- I’ve referred before to the use of fusible tapes and such to keep narrow hems, etc. in place. This shirt has some fusible thread action going on in the narrow hem and the placket piece. Yes, fusibles come in thread form! See image below. It can be used in the bobbin, and after a stitching line is sewn you can press it down for securing a narrow hem or other such tasks. Late edit: received my issue of Threads today and there is a whole article on fusible thread!
- About interfacing the collar, collar-band and cuffs —- I used a fusible shirt interfacing which is labeled “firm”. Unfortunately, the fusibility did not work that well, despite following instructions exactly, and repeating the process a few times. The interfacing and fabric parted ways as soon as I handled the piece, even after leaving it alone until it cooled. On my to-do list is contacting the seller to ask about it.
- Why are there certain details in men’s shirt patterns, and not in women’s shirt patterns? Take a look at this little gusset inserted at the bottom end of the side seams. Presumably, it’s there to keep the side seams from coming apart with wear. The tiny gusset is a cool feature for slits in side seams, and I’ve decided here and now to use it wherever I can. Win!
- Making a flat-fell seam all the way down the sleeve and side seam is very fiddly (and downright difficult if you’re an inexperienced seamstress). Why? Because the sleeve becomes narrow as it goes down toward the cuff. Have you ever top-stitched a seam in a narrow cylindrical item? Here’s the image that says it all.
I could have sewn and serged the seam on the wrong side but this is a “dress” shirt and the pattern instructions called for a flat-fell seam. I stayed true to the instructions, and managed to flat-fell all the way down. Someone chime in here; how do professional shirt-makers do this? Thanks in advance!
That’s it for 2019, friends! I’ll see you in 2020.