Yes, I feel exactly like this….. image from the photo library on WordPress.

I had high hopes for this great looking wraparound tunic by the one and only Donna Karan, licensed by Vogue Patterns, View A. That enthusiasm came down with a crash — I’m always hopeful but right now it’ll have to go into UFO (UnFinished Object) mode. Here’s why:

Beginning……

It is a beautiful piece in the final look and interesting in the pattern methodology; the right front and back is one pattern piece. Which means, there is no sewn seam on the right shoulder. I chalk-marked the shoulder point, but I still think there should be some stabilizing element there. Maybe I’ll iron on a strip or two of stabilizer at the shoulder seam area. So far, I was excited to try out a unique pattern; I have made a simple top with the back and front cut in one big pattern piece before very successfully, (i.e. Silhouette Patterns’ pleated fabric blouse with one shoulder seam and one side seam). This one, Vogue 2064 by Donna Karan, released in 2001 is considerably more complex, mainly due to the wraparound feature.

Working on it….

I’m following the instructions exactly as printed in the guide and the left front is now attached at the only sewn shoulder seam and side seams; it brings me to folding over and sewing down the 5/8” allowance all around the front flap (which will be the wraparound), back neck and right front edge. They do not ask you to finish the edges first of the neck edges, or fold them in. I get it; knit does not ravel so let’s go with that. By the way, there is 1/8” elastic that will be inserted throughout the folded over edge — understandably to keep the wrap-over piece close to the body; I get that too.

Beginning of headache…..

My problem is becoming obvious now; just folding over and stitching down a casing does not work neatly when the cut edge is curved; as in the back neck and at the sharp turns at the shoulder points. Are you with me? Here’s why it doesn’t work and we have to find other solutions: in a concave shape (e.g. neck edge), the cut edge is smaller all around than the length inside. Turning over the cut edge 5/8” to the inside and sewing it down will require stretching it to fit. You can imagine what happens when the stretchy fabric wants to relax. Am I missing something?

Wise decisions?…..

The most viable option now is cutting off the 5/8” neck-and front-wrap seam allowance and enclosing the edge in a fold over elastic. Another option is —- adding a gusset-like thing at the corners ostensibly to increase the cut-edge length to correspond with the inside edge. Third option is to snip open a couple of v-shapes somewhere in the edge; not sure how it’ll work. Fourth option and quite feasible: use a narrow strip of jersey to add a facing. Now my brain is starting to hurt, and I’ve decided to give it up for now.

Made me think…..

How was the Donna Karan piece from the original collection 24 years ago constructed? Most of my clothing made from Vogue Patterns has been a success with instructions that enabled a successful outcome. Not this one.

Okay, onwards to sewing up a simple mini-capsule….

Samina