If you reach out for your jean-jacket frequently, is it a basic? According to my friend Roz of Sew Much Fabric, it is a “completer piece”, adding a classic-edgy chic to one’s look no matter the rest of the outfit, or occasion: errand run, workday (in a lot of work places, these days), or informal evening events, depending on the color wash and how it is styled.

So I’ve begun to make a classic blue jean jacket — a trial run with stashed denim which is — let me think —approximately 20 years old. It’s striped in a subtle way and has a color wash somewhere between a dark and medium. Further evoking my stash-busting tendencies, I found two patterns in my pattern collection which could be combined to give the classic lines of the blue jean-jacket. The vest has all the iconic bodice features but no sleeves, which I will pull from the other pattern. Note that this is still a trial, people.

Jumping into the black hole of “researching” after Roz’s inspiring guidance to my sewing group, there are features indelibly associated with a blue jean-jacket; they haven’t changed in decades, which raises the jacket to icon status.

Does anyone have a picture of their parent or grandparent in a jean-jacket, even if you’re not a descendant of James Dean? Below is one of my own descendants, my daughter Sarah. Many heart emojis here. Photographed by Brian J. Campbell

Marc Jacobs

Enduring features of a jean-jacket:

= Blue denim fabric — dark (dressy look), medium or light (casual look) wash. The weight of the denim maybe a personal preference; according to Roz, at least a 10 oz denim is suitable. I am not sure what weight my stash denim falls under but it is quite malleable. I’ve ordered this 10 oz medium blue wash denim for my next jean jacket from Sew Much Fabric. Excited emoji here…..

=Front open

=Waist length-ish

=Metal buttons

=Yokes on upper front and back

=Small pocket with flap in the yoke/front seam.

=The fronts and back (below the yoke) have three panels each.

=Waistband.

=Collar.

=Cuffed set-in long sleeve which can be turned back for the coolness factor.

=Topstitching in taupe, yellow or orange thread. Topstitching must be prominent.

Did I miss anything?

Keeping all of the above in mind, I have embarked on a blue-jean-jacket journey. This is how far I’ve come with the trial piece, and am listing my experiences and tips. It is actually quite easy to sew — so far. We’ll see as I move along to complete it.

1. Pre-wash and dry the denim a couple of times.

2. Cutting out: Yes, it does need a big sharp scissor or rotary cutter. I used both implements but my hand ached anyway just from the exertion of cutting. Don’t be discouraged by my words, though.

3. Use an erasable pen or chalk for markings. This pattern doesn’t have too many marks. Make a snip for notches.

4. Machine needles: since I didn’t find denim needles in my needle stash, and didn’t want to head out to the local Joann for various widely known reasons, I tested a Universal 12 needle on a scrap of denim. Whaddaya know — it worked perfectly. I did have to adjust the machine upper thread tension, though. Word of advice: if your stitch is not perfect, feel free to play with the upper tension. That’s why it’s there.

5. Use regular polyester thread and a longer-than-default stitch. On my machine I went up to 3.5 mm. For topstitching I went up to 4mm.

6. Topstitching: this can make or break the look of the jacket. I have not found success with topstitching thread — ever. So I doubled up regular thread with a spool of orange and a spool of mustard which gave the perfect shade. Or, you can use two spools of matching thread in your preferred color.

7. Evenly applied topstitching: do not be a speed demon while topstitching, and use markings on the machine plate as an aid in the alignment. If it shifts an iota here or there, don’t fret and carry on. Life’s too short. Or, be a fusspot and undo the wavy topstitching to start again.

I am at the stage where the front and back panels, the collar, pocket flaps are assembled and topstitched. Can’t wait to sew them together with the pockets, yokes, sleeves, waistband and share with you, dear readers.

See you next time! It’s a proven fact that the activity of sewing calms down the heart rate and blood pressure. So, go start your jean-jacket today.

Samina